Leaving Birpara: The Toy Train Not Taken

October 20th, 2005 | By Joshua | 3 Comments »

The reason the Dalgaoan-Birpara Railway Station does not appear on my map of the town is because, until my final week, I had not had any reason to go there... [Read this entry]

The Moldy Backpack Blues…

October 18th, 2005 | By Joshua | 1 Comment »

From my freshly trimmed mustache
To the bottom of my walkin’ shoes…

Tranquilo Traveler Rule #1: When your backpack has been sitting in the corner for so long that its... [Read this entry]

Viswakarma: God of Broadband, DSL, and Ethernet

October 17th, 2005 | By Joshua | 16 Comments »

The mustachioed, elephant-riding, dainty-looking deity on the right is Viswakarma: God of Technology, Machines, Iron-work, Masonry, Carpentry, and all Trades and Handicraft. His Puja was celebrated on September 17, when... [Read this entry]

Durga Puja Part 2: Oh Boya—It’s Bijoya!

October 15th, 2005 | By Joshua | No Comments »

Sorry, I couldn’t resist. It’s just that I’ve been listening to “Shubho Bijoya!” all day, as Birparians wish each other a happy final phase of Durga Puja. (Incidentally, I published... [Read this entry]

Our Other Roommate: Shelob the Shaggy

October 12th, 2005 | By Joshua | No Comments »

The first time we met Shelob, we murdered several thousand of her children—freshly hatched spiderlings which were seething over one corner of our bathroom. We washed them down the drain... [Read this entry]

Durga Puja: Praying to the Demon Slayer

October 11th, 2005 | By Joshua | 3 Comments »

Fiercest of all Goddesses, consort of Shiva the Destroyer & Source of the Universe, Durga is the most revered deity in all of West Bengal. Bengalis’ year-round worship of Dame... [Read this entry]

The Man Who Sells Me My Toilet Paper

October 5th, 2005 | By Joshua | No Comments »

Note the tee-shirt-resting-on-the-belly method of keeping cool, an extremely popular practice in both Nicaragua and West Virginia.

TP can be a difficult item to find in a town with no Western... [Read this entry]

Map: Birpara Town, Jalpaiguri District, North Bengal

October 4th, 2005 | By Joshua | 5 Comments »

When I showed my map of Birpara to Tay, and asked her if I’d missed anything, I was startled when she immediately declared “Yes!” and went on to list everything... [Read this entry]

Bengali Birthday Bash: Bulbulda Will Arrange

September 30th, 2005 | By Joshua | 1 Comment »

Vikash “Bulbul” Roy, is much more than the owner of the vehicle we rent. He is our Godfather, our band manager, our bodyguard, and social planner. The name we call... [Read this entry]

Oolash! A Day in the Life

September 20th, 2005 | By Joshua | No Comments »

The doorbell starts ringing at 8 o’clock in the morning, Saturday, our first “day off” in weeks. The day’s visitors include the typical Bengal Bunch cast and crew—Bulbul-da, Bodi-the-Nosy, Bling... [Read this entry]