The Tranquilo Traveler
The Tranquilo Traveler is a celebration of voluntourism, slow travel, and other interesting ways to see the world. Travel writer and award- winning Moon Handbooks author Joshua Berman created The Tranquilo Travel as a resource for world trippers and international volunteers, a window to the author’s travels in Nicaragua, Belize, and beyond, and an update of his books and articles.
Obama appoints Coloradan Vinai Thummalapally as Ambassador to Belize
Perhaps its their predilection for the outdoors and active traveling, but people from Colorado seem to end up in Belize in disproportionate numbers than other travelers and expatriates. I myself bounce between Boulder and Belize and I’ve met many-a reformed mile-higher who has opened a bed-n-breakfast or dive shop in Placencia, Hopkins, and Ambergris Caye.
Well, get ready to add one more Coloradan-in-Belize to the list: As reported in the Times of India, “President Barack Obama has nominated on old Indian college classmate and buddy of his to be the American ambassador to the tiny Central American nation of Belize, in keeping with the American tradition of rewarding political contributors, personal friends, and party groupies with sinecures.” (more…)
Earthquake shakes Belize and Honduras, maybe farther
Several major quakes, including a 2:30-a.m. whopper measuring 7.1 on the Richter scale, shook much of coastal Belize and Honduras last night. There was more damage in Honduras, where several people (maybe more) died from collapsed homes, but reports are still coming in. The ensuing tsunami threat was lifted today.
Central America is riddled with major geologic fault lines (Belize is one of the only countries in the region without any volcanoes); but earthquakes are rare in Belize.
Are you in Belize? Did you feel it? Any reports would be much appreciated in the comments below. In the meantime, here are some links to find out more about last night’s events:
AmbergrisCaye.com message-board reports
(I originally posted this on the Chaa Creek Travel Blog)
My final day in Belize…
… was as ridiculously hot, vibrant, lazy, and as unpredictable as any other day I’d ever spent in this strange, tranquilo, tucked-away little corner of the continent. It began in Gales Point, at the tip of a snake-skinny peninsula that juts into the vast brackish Southern Lagoon. It was the morning after a full moon and Easter Sunday sambai fertility dance. On this day, I was traveling with a television producer and a cameraman, in search of the bizarre. A green snake slithered across the red road just as we reached the mainland. It was a slow, easy day, especially compared the the previous week, working up to 19 hours inside caves, in remote Maya villages, underwater, from the air. Nope, today was a simple drive with only one mission: talk with Gilly the Snake Man and take his picture. (more…)
Back in Belize for Holy Week
Ah … Belize in the springtime—hot (102 in the shade yesterday), dry, dusty, and as vibrant and full of life as ever. I spent my first day day tripping to Cayo where I stumbled upon a marching band festival on the streets of San Ignacio, then pushed westward into the bush where I finally had a chance to visit the Poustinia Art Park, a truly bizarre, extraordinary environmental museum, of sorts. There I met Gilvano Swasey and Luis Alberto Ruiz, visionary Belizean artists featured in the New York Times article, “And You Thought Art in New York Was a Jungle” by Bruce Barcott. Then it was back to the Caribbean, arriving in Belize City in time for sunset and happy hour.
New images in my stream, scroll forward from here–>
Belize with my baby daughter (July, 2008)–>
Bad-Ass “Belize City Boil-Up” is Funkiest Album I’ve Ever Heard.
Seriously. It’s a bold statement, but I stand by it. Stonetree Records released Belize City Boil Up in 2005 to instant international acclaim—which was accompanied by international surprise that Belize could produce something other than reggae and punta. Belize City Boil Up consists of freshly remastered vintage Belizean recordings from the 1950s, 60s & 70s when the Belizean music scene actually included cool jazz, smooth rhythm and blues, and even psychedelic funk. Turn up the volume — awesome samples on the album site and on Amazon.
Home Cooking in the Global Village by Richard Wilk looks at Belizean food and its place in the world

Stew chicken, rice, stew beans, potato salad, and fried plantain. That’s the delicious combo on the plate above, prepared for me last July in Gales Point. The story of how these foods came together on my plate that day as a “typical Belizean dish” is a long and interesting one. But Home Cooking in the Global Village: Caribbean Food from Buccaneers to Ecotourists by anthropologist Richard Wilk has more far-reaching themes then Belizean culinary identity. From the book’s get-go, Wilk argues against the simplistic notion that in today’s hyper-connected world, “…culinary diversity is disappearing under a monotonous food landscape of burgers and fries.”
Rather, the advancing steamroller is only one way to look at globalization; another way is to “compromise and reduce [globalization’s] impact by adapting and preserving local and ethnic traditions of food, music, dance, and language.” (more…)
Sustainable Harvest International offers volunteer opportunities in southern Belize
In a unique partnership with Cotton Tree Lodge, a highly acclaimed eco-lodge up the Moho River in Belize’s Toledo District, Sustainable Harvest International (SHI) has a number of ongoing projects that take advantage of Belize’s rich soil and plant diversity.
Sustainable Harvest International has been working in Belize since 1999—they’re also active in other Central American countries, “providing farming families with training and tools to overcome poverty while restoring the planet’s tropical forests.” In addition to overseeing an impressive organic garden at Cotton Tree Lodge, which supplies many vegetables for the kitchen, SHI offers a Sustainable Chocolate Tour in which participants can incorporate several days of volunteer work, chocolate making, and adventure activities. Proceeds from these trips benefit SHI’s Belize programs. SHI has also offers one-day volunteer opportunities to lodge guests.
Belizean Maya Land Rights Case Update
Despite the Supreme Court of Belize’s landmark 2007 decision “affirming the rights of the indigenous Maya communities of Belize to their traditional lands and resources and declaring those rights protected by the Constitution of Belize in light of relevant international law” (also called “the most far-reaching application of international law by a domestic court to recognize the rights of indigenous groups to their traditional lands”), the Maya of Toledo District continue to have to fight to uphold these rights.
The Rogers College of Law at The University of Arizona’s Indigenous Peoples Law and Policy Program offers the best overall info on the case that I’ve found, with a wealth of information on southern Belize and the issue of who was there first. This documents page is particularly informative … appeals are pending.
How to Cook a Tapir: Joan Fry’s Belize memoir out next month
I love a good travel memoir, better yet, a culinary travel memoir. So I can’t wait to read How to Cook a Tapir: A Memoir of Belize, by Joan Fry, being released in April. From the book’s publisher: “This is the funny, heartfelt, and provocative story of how Fry painstakingly baked and boiled her way up the food chain … Fry’s efforts to win over her neighbors and hair-pulling students offers a rare and insightful picture of the Kekchi Maya of Belize, even as this unique culture was disappearing before her eyes.”Pre-order Tapir on Amazon
Belizean Maya Festival planned in Toledo for end of March
On March 28-31, 2009, visitors to Belize’s southern Toledo District can take part in activities being organized by the Tumul Kin Center of Learning in Blue Creek village, including a demonstration of the ancient Mayan ball game. There will also be a performance of the Cortes dance, telling the story of the conquistadors’ arrival in Central America; and a “fireball game” where players use sticks to strike a burning ball. Also expect marimba, harp-playing, and poetry competitions.
The festival was staged for the first time in 2008 and was attended by hundreds of nearby Mayan villagers, and by other Belizeans and tourists.
This year, at least one local jungle resort, The Lodge at Big Falls is offering a special “Living Maya” package to help you make it to all the events — and to explore nearby ruins and national parks.
[Pictured above: the ball court at Nim Li Punit ruins.]
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BY JOSHUA BERMAN
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