The Tranquilo Traveler
The Tranquilo Traveler is a celebration of voluntourism, slow travel, and other interesting ways to see the world. Travel writer and award- winning Moon Handbooks author Joshua Berman created The Tranquilo Travel as a resource for world trippers and international volunteers, a window to the author’s travels in Nicaragua, Belize, and beyond, and an update of his books and articles.
Himalaya, Mountain Mama: The Hunza Valley
By Joshua | July 8th, 2005 | 
23 Comments » 
While Pakistan struggles with a severed submarine Internet cable (the communications ministry, apparently, had misled the country for years about the existence of a backup line), the TT struggles with how best to introduce you, fellow travelers, to the awesome, mind-clearing spectacle that is the Hunza Valley.
How, indeed.
[Warning: if, by accidental osmosis, I employ any Salman Rushdie-esque putting-together-of-words or random narrative experiments, it is because I am reading Shame, the pre-Satanic Verses novel about “not-quite Pakistan,” loaned to me by Rachel-in-Islamabad, and possibly illegal to possess in this country (don’t worry, I’ve got a book cover).]
For a time, I was going to regale you with descriptions of our flight, soaring above icy peaks and green valleys, like Gandalf-astride-an-eagle; then the harrowing, wing-tippy landing followed by stepping-off-the-plane, the blast of lightness, the cool of mile-high air, blooming flowers, and us, surrounded by so many embracing family members with their warm, drawn-out “Salaams.”
Then, I thought, the entry should be about our minibus ride along the Karakorum Highway (KKH), the High Road to China, claimed by the many thousands of Pakistani and Chinese workers who blasted it out of cliff-hugging donkey trails to be the Eighth Wonder of the World; crammed into our seat with people who spoke differently than those in Islamabad, dressed differently, mountain people who smiled warmly at the token foreigners in their midst, these whites who oohed, ahhed, and clutched each other’s arms while not-looking at the long, straight-down voids beyond their open window.
But, upon entering the Hunza Valley, a sweeping swath of greenery painted between gray, white-capped sharpness, cleaved down the middle by a deeply gouged river whose sheer thousand-foot banks spoke of its power, I knew that the starting point of my mountain report was here, in this astounding oasis where the name “Shangri-la” is bandied without abandon.
Let us climb to a perch above it all then, to Duikar, the Eagle’s Nest, the famed sunrise spot, where east-west, valley-long views are unique enough to endure the hike to them, and whose height reveals even more five-, six-, and seven-thousand meter peaks than are visible from the villages below. Yes, Duikar, whose Middle-Earth-sounding name fits nicely with the fairytale scenery which, in turn, belittles any trifling adjectives applied to its grandiosity.
We ascended to Duikar from our hotel in Karimabad, through the village of Altit, where children shouted “Hallo” from the treetops; where twenty-something bachelor, Rahmal Kazim, invited us into his home for the use of his toilet, then served us tea, fresh cherries, mulberries, dried apricots, and conversation; where gentle old men in their flat-topped woolen Hunza caps, greeted us with “Asalaam aleikum,” and “How-are-you-sir-what-is-your-good-name,” shaking hands and smiling.
We finally reached the top, my wife and I, watched a drawn-out sunset, and decided to spend the night, ceiling of stars above the roof of the world, in a canvas tent with made-up beds (100 rupees, or $1.67 for us both), in order to witness this famous dawn.
“Wake up call, sir,” came our soft-spoken host, Shah Ali’s voice at 4:30 a.m.
Finally, we come to the beginning — the beginning of my report to you, the beginning of the day, the beginning of our mountain exploits. At precisely 5 o’clock, the pointed peak of Mt. Rakiposhi (7,790 meters tall, nearly five miles above sea level!) turned apricot-orange. First light traveled above and between the folds of the Hindukush, striking this highest mass from some impossible angle, then, slowly, began washing down the crisp-white slopes — first of Rakiposhi, then the others, then alighting on nearer, lower ridge tops, until, finally, at 7:30, the Himalayan sun struck the back of my neck as I sipped instant coffee and breakfasted on eggs, Hunza bread, local butter, and apricot jam.
In our sphere-encircling journey of geographical — and historical — loops and rings, we arrive full circle to the Tranquilo Traveler’s first report: standing at 9,000 feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides by heart-swelling mountains.
Welcome, everybody, to the Hunza Valley:
=================================
P.S. Tomorrow we will be received in the Hunza Royal Palace. The following day, Sunday, we depart for a 5-day trek to Rash Lake and possibly to 5,100-meter Rash Peak for views of K2. If I don’t get a chance to update tomorrow after our meeting with the Mir and his wife, I’ll be back on line at the end of the week. Until then…
23 Responses to “Himalaya, Mountain Mama: The Hunza Valley”
Yep….I can see it happening….I can almost taste that Himalayan air and feel the sun warm my skin…Yep! Keep climbing boy…
hi! glad to know you enjoyed Hunza and had nice things to say about it. My name is Prince Shehryar Khan, son of Mir Ghazanfar, Mir of Hunza. I read your interview with my Mother and Father. Found it quite interesting. Good Luck. Next time you are in Karimabad, your wife and you must stay at our Hotel, the Darbar.
i have no word for comments.because hunza is sooooooooooo beautiful.
dear sir JOSHUA BERMAN first i will congratulate u that u have made such an exccellent web sit on hunza.
Most of the viwed valley,mountains pictures, and Rakaposhi are in Nagar valley not in Hunza valley.
Hi Joshua,
You have great trip that you share with us. I enjoyed reading it. I am attempting to write an article on Hunzakuts and their way of living; farming being my main focus; I have a few question on it. Please answer as many as you can. Request you to send me an email; instead of putting it on your web.
Have you any survey of Hunzakuts way of farming? Why did that boy in his 20s invited you to use his toilet? I know they collect animal dung to be put in to their farm land; do they use human feces too(may be after curing) as fertilizers?
What food you eat while there? What Vegetables they grow there? I know mutton is available, what about the fish? And if yes; what kind?
What are other fruits than Apricots are grown in Hunja Valley?
What other grains are grown other than Buck-wheat and millets?
What apparent difference you found in water there; taste, freshness etc?
Warm regards
Daniel
hey josh,
i just travelled from hunza and you can definitely understand my feelings for that place same as yours speechless by the beauty, purity and peace. however wanted to ask about the third picture of hunza sunrise from which spot you’ve taken it? if i am not wrong from eagle’s nest view? kindly confirm either on my email or here i prefer to continue talking to you on email. see ya your response soon.
Hi,
Thanks for such a wonderful site. I belongs to That haven (Hunza). I know how precious it is for us.unfortunately i am away from Hunza for past 4 years becouse of my assignment out side country. My soul is always there.
Thanks
AMEER
Great sight mate keep it up.well come next time to the roof of the world for more adventures.
Cheers Iman
can any one please let me know if there are any sunnie muslims in hunza or are they mainly ismailies
Hunza is really heaven on earth. The narvcellous weather of hunza make a realisit enviorment
nice web site .. iam from lahore and me hobby is to jeep treck accross these mountains,and am looking for some one to join in (shared expenses). Have me own 4×4. Anyone out there with enough guts.? kkhiker@yahoo.com
Josh, I am so new to understanding everything Hunza related but have lived my life wanting to go to a place like this. I have been telling as many people that will listen about the diet of the Hunzakut’s and am on this site because I am getting ready to send a Hunza inspired gift basket to my best client who is out on medical leave. If you would be so generous, or anyone else who is in the know, to explain to me in a few sentences, how easy it is to get to the Hunza Valley. It’s on my life list and I want it to be on the short list. Oh! And what kind of internet connections are available? I have to take my virtual business with me wherever I go.
Hi,
I’m Dutch and I live in Spain, I know about the Hunza’s along time ago since I know ‘Nutrimetics’,a cosmetic company on nature base, they started with their famous ‘Nutri Rich Oil’; it is made from the Apricot Kern; everything started by Mr. Nobbs…. Please, read the book “Hunza Health Secrets for long Life and Happiness” by Renee Taylor (USA) I like to know, how this beautiful and peaceful people, live now. Why don’t we learn from them, it is still not to late, we still can save our Earth, save ourselve…. for the sake of children; Live is so beautiful; the Hunza people are beautiful. How I like to meet them in their Valley…..
My husband found your website while searching for a new place for us to live. As we read about how the Hunza people live in the Himalayan mountains we were in awe of how simple and wise the people live organically off the land. This is our long desire to get out of the way of life and lifestyle in the U.S.A and go back to our original roots. Is there a way we can go to this place to visit the Hunza people and experience their way of life?
Sure Teri,
The most peaceful place on earth HUNZA, out of the world place to live I am from Hunza but travel the world pick up a flight from Newyork to Islamabad and then on to Gilgit and beyond to Hunza
Hi Every one,
Thank you so much for great words about Hunza valley that is trully Heaven on Earth.
if any one would like to know more about Hunza can write to me i am more than Happy to share the information being a local from Hunza.
mail:faizaimmi@hotmail.com
or if any one in Aussie can call me 0400973734
Cheers Iman
Hi Josh,
Thank you very much for the beautiful words about our Hunza… the way you presented the beauty of Hunza in your beautiful words, its amazing.
Once thing i ll make it clear for you….. there is No Kingdom there anymore, so the people of Hunza are free and independent. Only community exists but no prince, Princess or a Queen.
Once again thank you very much for your beautiful words….
good luck and have a safe journey next time.
Hi,
Surely, Hunza has a magic. Anyone who has visited the Hunza Valley he/she will remember it forever. I went to Hunza Valley two yrs back but still the beauty of the valley is fresh as if I am there. I am going to recommend all the peace and nature loving people to visit once in their life time to see by themself.
I am planning to go again in July,08.
Cheers
Nasir
Hi Joshua,
Thanx for you information it is really beutifull hearing from Hunza.I not Hunza/Buruschs and I am over 20000 km awey from there. But we are haveing somthing like Hunza Marriage, Music and and littel bit word please if you need more information contakt me. I am lloking forward knowing sombady from Hunza all the best good bleas Hunza
isamalaj660@hotmail.com
why the peak of of the himalaya covered with snow.
I went to school with a son of the mir of Hunza at Aitchison College in Lahore from 1959 - 1963. My father and I were invited to stay at the palace, I remember the apricot trees. I am not familiar with Gordon college but I\’m wondering if the Mir had more than 1 son. On our trip to Hunza we also went to Swat, Gilgit, Kafiristan, Rawalpindi, Peshawar and most other places in Northern Pakistan. I would like to make contact with an old school mate if he is still around.
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Fabulous Josh,
I can almost see what you’re describing.
Keep it comming
Love to you and my daughter-in-law ” S “